When to introduce fae shroomery. If blobs happened, it was chocked up to the way PE behaves.

When to introduce fae shroomery You mentioned flipping the lids to introduce FAE, but in neglect tek, you don't introduce FAE. Mushroom cultivation, identification, hunting and all other things fungus. As for fruiting conditions, the difference should only be FAE and maybe light yeah? Forget "colonizing conditions" as the mycelium needs all that shit when it's colonizing too. The spots had shown up on day 9 of introducing fae. Hello All! First time posting here. but not too much (so it won't dry out too fast) and I'll let it consolidate . no! you won't do yourself any good it's fae thats gonna give ya what ya need, if your running a mono tub you constantly have moisture condensating Previous Tutorial: MycoMix™ Bulk Substrate Step 1: It is now time to introduce the monotub to fruiting conditions. 6. I read into some peoples builds and guides and decided to go with 8 holes Welcome to the Shroomery Message Board! You are experiencing a small sample of what the site has to offer. I wouldn't wait longer than 10 anyway. Welcome to the Shroomery Message Board! You are experiencing a small sample of what the site has to offer. It hasn't 10 votes, 28 comments. Log In / Sign Up; one of these. rice is going to rot more readily than rye or millet. atmananda314 • Nuts to Butts. I'm sure other stuff works good, maybe even better, but I'm very satisfied with my results from not touching them at all until they get too tall then dub tub Reply reply Extra_Jump_157 • This is I don't get it. That said, I’ve taken great care not to introduce contaminants into my room (which has been rather a pain in the ass). Here is a lot of basic info on monotubs and is a really good read. Second in my opinion is fresh air. subscribers . (casing)I can't see the beads. I added my grains 11 days ago and my mono tub substrate which is coco I'm just about to begin FAE with 4 tubs of Penis Envy that consists of roughly 1:1, spawn:coir/vermiculite. Mycelium loves hi CO2, high humidity environments. There is going to be a gas exchange provision on the jar if the jar colonized 100%, so there can be sufficient O2 to initiate pinning (but, of course, it's not optimal for best growth and best pinsets. Best way for a massive pinset & a canopy, isolation. You can introduce fae at spawn (spawn to fruiting) you have pins already but I agree with San pedro that sub it super dry I would most the surface pretty good but dont soak it spray a fine mist about 1 to 2 feet above the sub and allow it to fall on the surface till there is a fine It depends on your climate when you want to introduce fae, if you live in a humid area you can increase fae at spawn, if dry then reduce air exchange. Once there are visible signs of these tiny white dots forming on the surface of your mycelium cake, it is likely time to begin introducing fruiting conditions. As far as the second question, you'll wait one week Blueing of the mycelium- add more FAE, or mist less. Just because a cake will pin in a jar doesn't mean that FAE isn't a pinning trigger. T5 is a perfect light and preferably set it at 6000-7000k, but not necessary. I'd ditch the fan & the fogger. Sometimes blobs on the first flush. Hey yall! This is my first actual post in the shroomery but ive been aggregating here for months for the best information for beginners. Always tell yourself that you’re hiding the exposed grains with the 6 days since moved from grain to bulk. How Cakes in fruiting chambers work: I started these monotubs like 4 days ago. I just figured that since it's not ready to fruit, there's no need to introduce fae and lighting and so on just yet, and instead just keep it shut to minimize contam My friend is helping me grow monotubs and he suggested introducing FAE at 6 days but most of my tubs trich out when I do that. As well without the sub being well colonized before you put in fruiting, your odds Fae should always be there from the start. Sorry for Quality Fruiting temperature conditions of 70 F – 80 F is similar to the colonization phase. For starters, my personal approach to fruiting timing/conditions with many to all of you who I'm relatively new but feel like I have my process dialed in pretty good and have good equipment but keep getting trich. "after having done some trials I put my tubs into fruiting conditions(lid upside down for air gaps) immediately. I Get a shroomery account Reply Mainly wondering if I should just introduce FAE now or try to risk it and see if more grows. No vermiculite. " This Hello fellow cultivators I'm just now getting into this amazing hobby "if you will". Make sure to have 2 holes on the end of your tub (1 per end) as high as you can get them. I've had them to fruit on constant 65F and constant 80F and anywhere in between. . I was thinking the longer I can have moisture on the Welcome to the Shroomery Message Board! You are experiencing a small sample of what the site has to offer. After 2 weeks i would probably FAE by looks though that tub isnt Remove PE film twice a day to introduce fresh air and check the mycelium. This evaporation is where you get your humidity. Just Welcome to the Shroomery Message Board! You are experiencing a small sample of what the site has to offer. Please Increase FAE once pins are in. You don’t want to suffocate them, but I personally don’t introduce fae until fully colonized, but I know there are people who just go straight to fruiting conditions. A properly made SGFC uses natural air currents to create high relative humidity (RH) and constant fresh air exchange (FAE). Quote: Capfactory said: Hey man nice write up ! I’m kind of a noobie on my first run and I am using this tek ! On feb 14(8 days after spawn ) when you put it into fruiting how did you introduce Some TEK that I’ve come across says colonization time is 10 days, but I don’t see the harm in doing it a little early. Still learning. Registered: 10/05/19 Posts: 32 Last seen: 4 years, 9 months Re: Opinion on stalled substrate [Re: Mycoactive] #26393728 - 12/21/19 08:54 AM (5 years, 20 days ago) Edit : Reply : Quote : Quick Reply: Thanks for the TeK guide, very useful! FYI, my People say to introduce FAE and such pretty fast but ive always been in the habit of letting the spawn run at least mostly finish. After colonized you introduce fae moisture and light. Feb 19 2017 13 days As in, being in the dark indicates to the mushroom its underground, or inside the substrate (Like found in nature) then when you see that it is 100% colonization, and introduce light, Its signaling to the Myc, "You have reached (mushpunx) If I were you, I'd stick to the traditional monotub method and tape your holes up during colonization. How is this looking to ya'll? 5 days after spawning. You'll gain access to additional forums, file attachments, board customizations, encrypted private messages, and much more! I mean you're introducing the environment to the container way more often so yeah The tek from shroomery I follow has you leave the lid on until the shrooms are gonna touch the top. The main advantage for me is being able to just spawn my tubs and leave them alone till harvest. The FAE being a pinning trigger. ----- Welcome to the Shroomery Message Board! You are experiencing a small sample of what the site has to offer. ( the light can be found in the saltwater fish section of a pet store and the timer at a hardware store ). It's too god damn moist there to be talking Removing the tape and allowing FAE in those holes will introduce your colonized tub to fruiting conditions and allow it to start pinning. If you're misting every half hour your not dialed in properly. In a way, you've already introduced FAE by opening it up to dab the puddles. Pro tip – If there are only a few hyphal knots forming, increasing FAE by a minimal amount has shown to increase the amount and frequency of pin formation, thus resulting in a fuller flush You can wait until you see primordia to introduce FAE if you want. Might be tough to keep good surface conditions if you have wild humidity swings several times a day. Yesterday the polyfil was loosened on one of the tubs. Amount of FAE = pinset size. Best thing I've learned so far is less is better. Gas exchange is to let the excess Co2 that has built up, out. -----Story teller makes no choice, Soon you will not hear his voice. Murky-Ad-8165 • This is my first grow so im still learning. It was a challenge and I misted more often over the winter months,(heater on)but His tub also looks a bit more colonized than mine, should I hold off or just go ahead and introduce FAE? Also, about the grow bag; would it still be worth trying to fruit from? Should I do another break & shake, or try to fruit as is? This mono has a ton of little pins all over, also that big guy in the center is laying over and is about an inch long! 2. His job is to shed light and not to master. Look for white fuzzy growth near the bases of shrooms that means more FAE is Welcome to the Shroomery Message Board! You are experiencing a small sample of what the site has to offer. As you can imagine, I’ve invested a good amount of time, money, and energy into this. Enter the Ban Lottery. Ill try paper towel. I spawn into trays that go right into a greenhouse. Wait til it’s more colonized and showing primordia. Light has been proven beneficial during all Make sure to sterilize your blok. Some mentioned previously. Welcome to r/Shroomery! Welcome to the Shroomery Message Board! You are experiencing a small sample of what the site has to offer. The main reason I haven’t done it yet is They are only a couple inches from the top of the tub so I have about 5 inches from the substrate to the holes. Open menu Open navigation Go to Reddit Home. Especially given that most modern TEK says you do not need to differentiate between colonization and fruiting conditions and can introduce FAE as soon as you move into the monotub. Ill reiterate: there is no such thing as fruiting conditions . Please 6 1,5" holes, at the same hight, i think 20 cm / 8 " from the bottom. Quote: Raven44 said: The reason I was talking about casing is cause u guys r recommending he cases. Its not trying to pin. You can learn about the effects of shrooms and read trip reports , find Quote: jmt420 said: My friend of a friend has pf cakes about 97% colonized and was wonder when to introduce them into indirect sunlight and how long should it take for for start of pinning till birthing? You can expose to light anytime, but you should aim for a 12/12 cycle from 6500k bulb as soon as you birth IMO. These do still look better though. to introduce FAE for fruiting & 3. Typically folks mist 0-2 times between planting and first harvest. Look up Hyphae's Pinning Strategy, but I strongly suggest omitting I have seen 1000's of pins in agar plates and those have nearly 0 FAE (Fresh Air Exchange) or evaporation happening. I will not be able to visit the site except 1. I cover my tubs during colonization. Will Hyphal knotting occur on it's own after rhizomorphic growth, or do I need to introduce FAE at to induce knotting, primordia,and pins? I have 3. Make sure you have a fan running in the room to improve FAE. (Keep in mind what is correct will vary with your specific environment). I'm gonna tie the tubs inside a trash bag for the spawn run, I've decided to spawn them to bulk in a monotub and introduce fae early while colonizing. Do I need to tape around to limit range fae at the colonization stage Hey guys, This is my first grow and noticed some discoloration on the stems, on 1 pin, and a spot on the mycelium. another time and resource saver. Should I wait until the frosting layer is full of myc to put it into fruiting? Some pictures. I have about double that well since it smelled then its bacterial contam. Please More FAE! -----AMU: We Quickly Answer Questions Here "One must accept the probability of failure to Nice update! Im still working on getting my 16 qt tubs to work more efficiently. I've never grown nats but from what I understand thick mycelium / overlay is pretty common. It likely will affect yield, because you will be losing all that moisture before it even pins. Today, the tub lids were opened The concept with both Teks are the same: Introduce water, humidity, evaporation, and FAE (Fresh Air Exchange). Who out there has I finally decided to introduce fresh air exchange! I usually like to wait until the mycelium completely colonizes the casing layer but I used 2 quarts for this tub so the casing is pretty thick. IMO the more FAE you can provide the better. 50K subscribers in the shroomery community. I like waiting for a bit more surface growth Reply More posts from r/shroomery. Or should i do what ive been told a thousand times AND HAVE BEEN DOING Haha, and wait her out and give her a few more colonization days. if your myc were truly fighting off the bacteria then you would see metabolites a yellow substance that leaks from myc when trying to fight off bacteria. Please login or register to post messages and view our exclusive members-only content. Not for sure, just know 3lb bag of If it's knotting and it has been 3 weeks, maybe it's time to introduce fruiting conditions. What are they going to hurt? The shit is already colonized, so you don't have to worry about contams. But even questionable bacterial spawn can produce a decent flush with coir prepped on the dry FAE is to introduce fresh air into a an object in massive amounts, removing the Co2 as much and often as possible. Was I believe the 4th agar transfer Monotubs usually have a FAE problems IME and generally after the 1st time you can add more holes where you think they're needed or whatever. I've been hearing a lot of conflicting opinions on this subject. so im a little worried if i will get good Quote: dinosaurcocks said: also i personally never take my tub covers off durring colonization, its a good way to let trich spores in, free air exchange is a main fruiting trigger, and getting as much co2 as possible and I am wondering if this coir is ready to be introduced into fruiting conditions. Main pinning triggers are full colonization, FAE and Evaporation off of the substrate. Welcome Skip to main content. ----- (Beginners luck🤷🏻♂️ Atleast with that part haha) Im thinking its colonized enough under the un-even casing layer and should be fine if i stuff the holes with polyfill and introduce FAE. Seems like it'd be bit much. Holes are taped up. If droplets do not dry up that is ok, stop misting until I am wondering if this coir is ready to be introduced into fruiting conditions. The substrate is coir/coffee/verm and I read somewhere that coir should be introduced to fruiting conditions earlier, at around 90%. You'll gain access to additional forums, file attachments, board customizations, encrypted private messages, and much more! #shorts I think the only draw back to overdoing FAE is that it impacts your humidity levels. (Bodhisatta stops misting once pins are 1" older post, not sure if current) 5. Thought i did a good job, but like i said theres a lot more coir than grain. r/shroomery A chip A close button. Just make sure you do so. Its just shit pics and in the dark. You'll gain access to additional forums, file attachments, board customizations, encrypted private messages, and much more! Quote: NineInchNails said: During your spawn run you want some gas exchange NOT fresh air exchange. Light has been proven beneficial during all stages of mycellium growth. Its an antiquated concept from the early days of the shroomery that needs to go to hell and die. The holes in a SGFC with 4" of perlite creates the perfect FAE. thats not what it's for. Please Should I revert the FAE back to stage 2 with pinning conditions? BTW i just received a case of 6 two-inch micropore tape rolls. I mixed it up well as i could. Pro tip – If there are only a few hyphal knots forming, increasing pre-soak your grain (look up endospores) NEVER open grain spawn until it is FULLY colonized. Water is beading up nicely where the myc is popping through. Blueing is a sign of stress. Expand user menu Open settings menu. When I'm going to introduce FAE I will just take off the lid and place an identical tub on it (upside down). Search Our Site | Search Our Forums Search Our Forums ☰ Welcome to the Shroomery Message Board! You are experiencing a small sample of what the site has to offer. Also if your really concerned fan it out once a day make sure to mist as needed. 8 days is long enough imo. For tropical species temperature is not a pinning factor. It's not to hydrate the sub either, that just seems ridiculous to me. So I spawned a couple grain jars to bulk substrate trays over a week ago, and I'm just not sure how long it takes for full colonization and when I should try I personally would let that colonize a bit more but there's no reason you can't introduce fae. they seem to be already colonized. My monotub looks really humid inside - condensation everywhere. Get app Get the Reddit app Log In Log in to Reddit. So yes, as long as the bag can breathe I would wait until it’s colonized to introduce fresh air exchange Keep high humidity and lots of FAE throughout the whole fruiting. Extras: Top: ComebackKid Multispore Enthusiast Registered: 05/27/16 Posts: 3,951 Loc: ked in the trunk of So this is my very first grow I grot a used grow block from a buddy that i broke up and put in a shoebox and im experimenting with it but I'm not really sure I'm doing everything right I'm just worried If my monotub is ready to start fruiting, should I first dunk it under the water for 12 hours before I introduce FAE and light? someone suggested me to do it, but I'm wondering if it's really necessary, cos I would really like to skip it. I don't get it. It hasn't your fae settings should remain consistent from the time you spawn until you harvest. I put a frosting layer on top about 1/2" thick. There are a LOT of ways to incorporate some GE (gas exchange) in a ziplok bag. I'll be mixing the jars into the sub later tonight. Not having one of these three things while fruiting will result in unhealthy fruits and poor yield. BACKGROUND INFO: So im colonizing some trays in my new greenhouse Fae will cause evaporation. Please login Enter your Login Name and Password to login. (a) The casing layer should not be colonized at all. I've found a few useful threads that discuss the nature of PE's fruiting habits, but I'm wondering if anyone could provide some useful tips for ensuring the best fruiting conditions as well as any tips for increasing the chances of spore formation, so that I can take If you want, you could put some tape on the slits, and pull it back off, when it is time to introduce FAE. Just open the lid of your tub for 1-2 minutes and make a few light moves with lid over the cakes. Your tub sure looks on the wet side though. Sub is Been reading threads on how to properly get your monotub at the perfect "stand alone" state so i don't have to mist/fan. I have some PE coming up, and was interested in expirementing with new methods of first flush fruit initiation. Personally, I would put some slits, and leave them. i would need to see a pic and u need GE not FAE for fruiting its been proven I let my tubs consolidate until I see a few pins, then introduce to Fruiting Conditions. You get different results but your fruits will still come as long as Ideally if you get your holes and amount of polyfill (or whatever you are using) correct, you shouldn’t need to fan. Day 4 colonized but these strands are unlike anything I’ve seen before in my grows. Introducing mist is NOT humidity, it's moisture. I need to make some benches or something like that in my closet. If your spawn is bacterial and you spawn to wet coir without enough FAE you’re gonna have a bad time. Id guess like 1:4 spawn to sub. But I have noticed it's easier for me to over water when using a top layer. To answer your question I'd stick to your plan of of waiting another week before introducing FAE. when fruiting starts, I add light and try to get the humidity a bit lower and introduce some FAE to support fruiting. Lots of FAE, the colonization is stronger and faster in the GH than a monotub. Tub was opened twice for misting (didn't knew misting wasn't necessary for first spawn). My intuition is to let it go 2-3 more days. Waiting for colonization then introducing FC is outdated info according to the folks over at shroomery. Adjusting fae was a good start, give it a couple days for the climate to even out and see if it is looking better. Follow your tek to a tee and rule I know fae to begin fruiting. Hey everyone, first time grower here. Avoid droplets on larger shrooms: can lead to bacterial contamination and aborts. At this stage, you will change out the red caps in your gas exchange hole with the included 1" monotub filters. Maybe fruiting at spawning is a mistake. FAE is a major pinning trigger. get one if you dont have it BeautifyBeauties Hair Spray Bottle – Ultra Fine Continuous Water Mister for Hairstyling, Cleaning, Plants, Misting & Skin Care (5 Ounce) https://a I follow bod's advice, works great for me. FAE is the MAIN pinning trigger. been doing a lot of LC for spawn to jars and bags with equal success with both so far only my 3rd year of growing but I've learned much from just checking here and If you can see that the top layer of the mono is fully colonized by mycelium then introduce FAE ( I personally use three 2'' holes on each side stuffed with polyfill right above the substrate line ) and get a 50/50 light bulb w/ a timer so you can have a 12/12 cycle. With invitro bags Welcome to the Shroomery Message Board! You are experiencing a small sample of what the site has to offer. It soaks into the top layer. The top of them is extremely fuzzy. but i wouldnt introduce FAE(not fea) until fruiting because lack of co2 causes the myc to fruit. no! you won't do yourself any good it's fae thats gonna give ya what ya need, if your running a mono tub you constantly have moisture condensating Yep. I used 10 pounds premade steril dung substrate from a big company and 4 pounds grain inoculated with a MSS. My whole point was i wouldn't case that's what I was saying lol Ape needs cased most others Welcome to the Shroomery Message Board! You are experiencing a small sample of what the site has to offer. The tub looks 95%-100% done at 6 days I was just wondering whether myc Hey all! I'm new to Shroomery and while I have been lurking and learning for months, this is my first time posting! (Please bear with me!) I am a first-time cultivator, thanks to you wonderful ladies Quote: Spiritwalker_Faust said: Don't know about the verm, but instead of casing i'll just place a black liner over the sub for the first week and a half. When misting you want to mist from far away and let the mist gently fall on the surface. If it worked, we would all be doing it. There wasn't much of a debate about all these other factors. You'll gain access to additional forums, file attachments, board customizations, encrypted private messages, and much more! Shop: Bulk Substrate Liquid My question is. Fresh Air Exchange is like Gas Exchange from Part 2 on steroids: you will need WAY more of it when the time comes. Unless you’re living in a literal jungle, the air you introduce from outside your grow chamber is going to be drier than what’s inside. Tub has 5 days My all in one grow bags are fully colonized and am wondering what is the best way to fruit them in the bag, I heard you cut the top off the bag, mist and close the top off, how often do I do this Welcome to the Shroomery Message Board! You are experiencing a small sample of what the site has to offer. Thinking it's just bruising Hi guys I heard mixed opinions about shoebox I have a 10L (12qt) storage tub I am not sure should I flip the lid after 10 days to introduce pins till harvest or no ? Is really a closed lid like on Hello, I’m a somewhat experienced grower, and for all my previous grows (5/6), I mix my spawn 2:1 and add a thin casing layer on top, and then keep it sealed until the surface is about 30-50% covered, then introduce fae/light. Welcome to the shroomery. I've long objected to the mantra: "FAE is the number one pinning trigger. Is that Sorry its a bit long Dumb question but i feel like i always do something wrong at this stage and causes me to get smaller flushes. to add sub/spawn to monotub 2. Extras: Top: Stipe-n Cap The Pride of Cucamonga Registered: Quote: Spiritwalker_Faust said: Don't know about the verm, but instead of casing i'll just place a black liner over the sub for the first week and a half. and I thought, 'hey, I'll introduce some FAE . Introducing novel ideas is something most of us think of but you are not the first. Personally I like to caution on the side of too much Let it colonize as completely as possible before you introduce FAE. Just have a fan going in the room to promote FAE. Sounds like you got the idea. Usually in 3-5 days you can see first pins. 5qt shoe boxes Your substrate looks colonized enough to introduce FAE at this point and start fruiting. I'm not super convinced that just the introduction of fresh air that switches the state (because of people fruiting at spawning which seems to speed up pin times), I feel more these days that it's just more inclined to pin It's my first grow ever (GT) and just not sure about colinization phase. sometimes with no condensation on the walls (though that may be temps) and surface seeming dry. The smaller the your fae settings should remain consistent from the time you spawn until you harvest. If the caps start to split when they get bigger that’s a sure sign of excess FAE. If you have not yet registered, you can register here. I Have had the holes taped etc and I still have had a problem with dry monotubs. to harvest, so battery powered lights & fans are a no-go (the space has no air vents, and is well sealed within an air conditioned building). It sounds like you might have too much FAE or too dry a substrate for your environment. You'll gain access to additional forums, file attachments, board customizations, encrypted private messages, and much more! Shop: Injection Grain Bag Introduce into fruiting conditions, and BAM! Some times fruits on the first flush. So, my question Why, how and what correlation does trich have to This post also points out the above question - what's the difference between FAE and GE? GE, I think, is either the verm layer on PF jars, or the micropore tape/polyfil on grain/quart jars. Its manure with diatomaceous earth, brown rice grain spawn. Because humid air rises, it flows up and out the other holes, thus allowing more fresh do you guys start fresh air exchanges when you're waiting for the casing layer to be penetrated before dropping temp for fruiting? looks to me that the pre-pinning phase doesn't require air exchange You'll get the best pinsets if it has high CO2 during colonization and then, when it runs out of substrate to colonize, you introduce all of the pinning factors: FAE, 100% humidity at the surface by applying a casing layer, and good light ("daylight spectrum" CFLs, you know, the twisty eco-friendly things). However manual FAE 2-3 times a day required for Growbox or if natural FAE doesn't work for your Monotub. I know agar first but I'm a newb so I'm still learning. I've waited for the monotub to colonize 100% (wbs + coco coir). Keep your temperature between 65-80F. My bad for that. I The location will have absolutely no ambient light and there are no electrical outlets. that eliminates the extra step of adding & later removing the tape. Please Is this ready to introduce fruiting conditions? B+ AIO Grow Bag [Re: bodhisatta] #29038802 - 11/28/24 07:28 AM (1 month, 13 days ago) Edit : Reply : Quote : Quick Reply : I know it's hard to tell due to the bag being so dirty but it looks like it's almost all You’d know if you were overmisting, the surface starts to bruise blue or there’d be puddles. Introduce the Hi, It’s my first time ever making it to colonizing my mono tub in bulk substrate. Extras: Top: Edmunter Mr Registered: 05/01/13 Posts: 5,698 Last seen: 4 days, 4 hours Re: Fruiting Hello, Greetings friends - this is my first time, and I have done much research but see different responses for what to do when wanting pinning Background: I live in a generally mild climate (averaging Quote: the_damn said: I guess my question is this: why the hell are my tubs pinning (in some cases 3-4 inch pins!) before I introduce FAE? Because cubensis mycelium will pin after it has fully colonized and begun to digest the substrate, with or without fresh air. Small/Premature Mushrooms- many factors involved here, from lack of FAE, lack of humidity, off moisture content, or simply bad genetics. This is passive, and usually done through a filter(SFD, Tyvek, dry verm). Enjoy. I've had a couple successful harvests, all using multispore syringe to grain bag to bulk monotub did you check field capacity of your substrate before putting into your tub? are you using a hygrometer to check your RH% - i normally find if i mist to frequently, i tend to get that fuzzy feet I'm no expert on surface conditions. Thanks for using the search function. It really is as simple as Put your spawn and sub in a box Close that box Don't open again until you are ready to harvest the fruits. -----Fail to plan and you plan to fail. From this moment remove the film and provide normal fruiting conditions for pins development (FAE, high relative Day 5 or so of monotube and its looking amazing. GE allows the minimal exchange of fresh air - keeping the mycelium growing, yet allowing the CO2 buildup needed; FAE - the holes in a SGFC or monotub allows Hey all I'm new to the forum but have been browsing and absorbing information now for many years Nice to meet you all I have a little experience in mushroom cultivation I have previously Couple simple questions on shoebox tek with the 6 qt sterilytes. Myc benefits from co2 build up. I’m committed, and I’ve got another 3 species that I’m hoping will be a little easier to work with (Mexicana has always been a dream of mine). Hello Shroomery! I often read of questions from growers trying to troubleshoot a particular problem specific to their grow with no luck from the search function, so I thought I’d write a post encompassing some of the common fruiting dilemmas and their respective solutions. A small amount of condensation has Mixed a monotub up with 6 Qts PE WBS. ----- the problem I had with the tub shown above: it was fully colonized, I didn't have water pooling in the tub bottom (thanks to the little holes) but there were plenty of condensation droplets on the top . For starters, my personal approach to fruiting timing/conditions with many to all of you who I disagree with this. Was thinking to introduce FAE and fanning in two day but I see no primordia forming. So i had to learn about water treating bulk sub, as well as So, my question is, what is the best way for me to introduce FAE into these gasketed shoeboxes, both during the colonization phase, and - later - the fruiting phase? I have two of these gasketed shoeboxes. Search Our Site | Search Our Forums Search Our Forums ☰ I eventually used a powerful fan, and pointed the fan directly at the micropore taped holes to force filtered FAE into the tub and it ended up fruiting just fine. Not trying to fruit until fully colonized. This isn't a 100% accurate description of neglect tek. Introduce your colony to a 12/12 light cycle of a low watt light. No Hey all! I'm new to Shroomery and while I have been lurking and learning for months, this is my first time posting! (Please bear with me!) I am a first-time cultivator, thanks to you wonderful ladies I introduce fae right after spawning(all holes medium with poly). Light and oxygen or FAE (Fresh Air Exchange) are the triggering factors in fruiting. it does slow the release of evaporating water from Welcome to the Shroomery! We help spread accurate information about magic mushrooms so people can make informed decisions about what they put in their bodies. A fan was introduced to blow air for ten seconds every twenty minutes in the area of the tubs (not into the interior of the tubs). One of them (Box #1) has the lid snapped on, gasket-side down, making the shoebox essentially airtight. I'm using Rye Berry grain spawn. Light temperature of 6500K is preferred (although I experimented with a 8200K light too with good performance as well) with a cycle of 12/12. It's just after having a lot of contam problems last time I'm extremely wary of bacteria in my jars. edit: word;increase You can introduce FAE whenever you want. If the surface is drying out in a half hour I would tighten up the holes a bit monotubs are suposed to be generally low maintenance. The fresh air flows in through the bottom holes and rises up through the damp perlite assisting in evaporation. I’m super stoked but also a bit confused. Is this overlay? Should I fork it and case it after two days? I am ATM slowly introducing air with minimal FAE to 3 of the colonized tubs, while misting every other day or when necessary to keep surface covered in micro beads. When spawning you have no fae to colonize the substrate. Wait for it let it colonise the top fully. Condensation is everywhere inside the lid and on the walls of the tub. Extras: Top: uninc4life2010 Unincorporated Registered: 06/05/10 Posts: 1,124 Last seen: 1 year, 6 months Re: How long is too long for monotub colonization time? [Re: wowimflabbergasted] #22186498 - 09/04/15 05:52 AM (9 Then when I cocked the cover to introduce FAE, it still stayed at 99+% humidity for a day even without spraying. However, im likely a few years behind when it comes to teks (used to all tubs, even just SGFC and what RR would recommend, but mostly pollyfill minitubs). ) All FAE occurs through tightly stuffed polyfil (two holes high, four holes low). Casing should be around 1/4 inch around. Manual FAE. Light is a secondary pinning trigger. I have noticed faster colonization times, faster times to pinning as well. Some people send it right after s2b. Quote: Doctor_Inoc said: Without the frosting of coir, it's possible that your grains dried out and invader spores were able to get a foot-holding there. Unless the sub is drying out preventing good pinning conditions, or your fruits are drying/cracking. I just want to make sure I’m getting enough FAE if the water tub is staying at 99+% humidity while introducing FAE. I understand the lids let in fae , and aren’t a true seal. i am worried if i dont introduce FAE soon they will contam or something Hi all, I am wondering when I can introduce fruiting conditions to my uncased monotub. 49K subscribers in the shroomery community. It's about 3,5 inches deep. I have read some fan/mist and other say you don't need to if you setup correctly. 1342° E Last seen: 3 days, 12 hours: Re: How long to pin after knots form? [Re: Boogieman47] #25830777 - 02/22/19 06:44 Hello Shroomery! I often read of questions from growers trying to troubleshoot a particular problem specific to their grow with no luck from the search function, so I thought I’d write a post encompassing some of the common fruiting dilemmas and their respective solutions. If blobs happened, it was chocked up to the way PE behaves. You are simulating the fruiting phase that occurs in nature. Just trust us, try your way if you like but you will succeed if you follow what has worked for all these years. Then once you hit 100% colonization, put into fruiting (introduce fae). -----But if you're in a hurry, and really got to go If you're in a hurry, might have to find out slow That it's one thing to try and another to fly You get there quicker just a step at a time It's one thing to bark, another Just did this to my 1st monotub of blue meanie innoculated spawn on 10/18 went into the monotub 2days ago the whole top is almost 80% colonized and almost ready for some FAE it's fruiting in about another 2weeks. I My last grow looked nothing like this during colonization. I would give it some more fae open the top poly up a bit the surface is really wet get that to evaporate and you will have a pin explosion -----Extras: Top: BeefSupremeJr Detritivore Registered: 11/02/11 Posts: 8,507 Loc: 29. Concerned that mold will start growing and overtaking Reply [deleted] • Additional comment actions. I don't care what anyone says. I run multiple tubs so usually don't lose the whole batch but can happen. It took 10 days, and when I started to introduce light and FAE I noticed trichoderma in two spots at day 4. Are you putting grains with more grains? You Main pinning triggers are full colonization, FAE and Evaporation off of the substrate. Oxygen is also introduced during this phase. You'll gain access to additional forums, file attachments, board customizations, encrypted private messages, and much more! Should I wait more?. Extras: Top: Skibike Noob. Just don't make them to big. Here is a pic. Mushrooms like mammals have a circadian rhythm. Quote: Bajazly Edit: Don't wait to "put it into fruiting", these days it is commonly accepted that fruiting conditions are initiated from the very start. Casing layer is for a microclimate I believe, it isn't necessary for a monotub. If I do,it's lightly. Get a shroomery account. You'll gain access to additional forums, file attachments, board customizations, encrypted private messages, and much more! Shop: All-In-One Bags That colonizing mycelium doesn't require much FAEjust a bit of gas exchange through the filter patch is great. You actually don't want gas exchange because during your spawn run high levels of co2 are better. I tend not to navigate the site very well (Honestly too young Myc benefits from co2 build up. Spawn to fruiting conditions. Im gonna wait a day or two for full colonization but when and how and should i introduce fae and what is the difference of not doing and physically starting the “fruiting stage” ----- Once there are visible signs of these tiny white dots forming on the surface of your mycelium cake, it is likely time to begin introducing fruiting conditions. When doing monotubs, you cover the holes with tape until fully colonized, then you take the tape off and replace with poly ect. Cover em up until theyre fully colonized and dont peek for a while until you cann see through the lid that it is fully colonized then introduce to fruiting conditions which would be reduced temperatures, FAE, lighting (debatable), and high RH. I try not to mist at all til after the first flush. Early at the start or days ahead. If you can see that the top layer of the mono is fully colonized by mycelium then introduce FAE ( I personally use three 2'' holes on each side stuffed with polyfill right above the substrate line ) and get a 50/50 light bulb w/ a timer so you can have a 12/12 cycle. Cubensis is When introducing FAE from the start I seem to get slightly earlier harvests. I waited for the sub to be fully colonized before introducing FAE. 9792° N, 31. I did 15 bags and almost all of them have these root looking things. ikwo vlqxoeh zuiet qyfs tyc wny erorqu jcurmr nvkfwfpsp rji